As an art dealer, you're constantly approached with requests to take objects on consignment, make direct purchases, or conduct investigations. Sometimes, these pieces fit seamlessly into your current collection—but that’s rare. A recent case involved a lady from Haarlem who owned a collection of extraordinary film costumes, an area far beyond my usual expertise.
Meryl Streep in The House of the Spirits (1993)
The collection comprised about ten handmade dresses from various British TV series and films, worn by both famous and lesser-known actors and actresses. These garments were crafted from a wide range of materials: lace, silk, velvet, and cotton. The two highlights of the collection—a peach-colored silk dress and a green lace gown—had been worn by none other than the legendary Meryl Streep (b. 1949) in the film The House of the Spirits (1993). These dresses were designed by renowned costume designer Barbara Baum (1944-2023). The film, based on the novel of the same name by Isabel Allende (b. 1942), tells the story of three generations of a Chilean family living through the country's military dictatorship. The success of the film and Meryl Streep’s esteemed career made these dresses highly collectible.
The current owner of the garments had acquired them from a Dutch director, who claimed to have purchased them at a London auction in the 1990s. However, without invoices or proof of provenance, the story couldn’t be verified, making it quite challenging to sell the costumes for a decent price. After several unsuccessful attempts to find buyers, the Haarlem collector enlisted my help to bring the pieces back to the market. With a bit of hesitation, I accepted the challenge.
Provenance Research: The Hunt for the Auction Catalogue
It was immediately clear to me: without a solid provenance, the dresses would be nearly impossible to sell. The first step was to examine the garments and watch the film, followed by diving into the provenance research and identifying potential buyers. Unfortunately, it was no longer possible to contact the former owner, so I had to find another way to solidify the ownership history.
One of the dresses had a small tag attached to it, marked with a date: 21 March 1995. Armed with this clue, I began searching online for London auction catalogues from that period. After some digging, I found a British antiquarian with dozens of catalogues from 1995. Only one matched the exact date on the label and the theme I was investigating: The Film Entertainment & Autograph Auction at Bonhams London. Three days later, the catalogue arrived in my mailbox. Not only did it list the dresses worn by Meryl Streep, but every single costume in the collection was described in detail. Each lot number included a description of the garment, who had worn it, and in which film or TV series it had appeared. I laid out the dresses and carefully matched them to the corresponding lot numbers in the catalogue.
The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, Los Angeles
Armed with a solid provenance, the catalogue as evidence, and a few film stills, I reached out to The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, a museum dedicated to the history, science, and cultural impact of the film industry in Los Angeles. They expressed immediate interest in the costumes worn by Meryl Streep. After smooth and pleasant negotiations with the museum, they purchased the dresses. The other costumes were sold at auctions to various new owners.
And so, the film costumes worn by Meryl Streep—tangible reminders of her iconic role—found a special home in Hollywood. Thorough art historical research, a strong provenance, and a compelling story are the key ingredients for a successful sale, whether it's a film costume, a painting, or even a car. After all, no one buys a vintage car without the proper papers. The owner of the collection was overjoyed with the sale of the dresses. For me, it was an adventure outside my usual path, but one I look back on with pride and satisfaction. It’s yet another reminder of how full of surprises the art world can be.